The Fashion Archivist Who Doesn’t Waste Makeup On

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“I’m Rashida Renée Ward (@evilrashida), and I operate a trend archive on Tumblr and Instagram referred to as How To Be a Fucking Woman. I titled it that due to the fact the complete notion of staying a girl is an oxymoron—there is no way to be a woman. I needed to curate an homage to the impact of Black ladies in fashion, but it also served as an outlet for me to conceptualize myself, and who I wanted to be. I grew up in the Bay Region, effectively in a magnificence salon. My mom owns a salon and so does my aunt, and she, my mother, and my cousin, and my sister-in-regulation all do hair. Even however my dad was about, my loved ones was additional matriarchal—it was a hyperfeminine environment. The women in my spouse and children are beautiful, major Black females, and when I was increasing up men and women ended up overtly antagonistic to them for practicing radical self-acceptance. And I was a person of these children who experienced a common trans narrative. I acknowledged my womanhood incredibly early, but I also uncovered early on that the world is not awesome to men and women who do not conform.

When you are Black and trans, there’s a superior likelihood that manner is a portion of your tradition. Among my house, my grandparents’ property, and the salon, there have been often a great deal of Black magazines lying all around. Practically nothing but Jet, Ebony…Eunice Johnson’s Ebony Style Good was lifetime-modifying. Starting off in the ‘50s, she would journey to buy couture from designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungao, Paco Rabanne and then put on a massive-scale style celebration. On the address you’d see Naomi Campbell or Beverly Peele, Stephanie Roberts, Katoucha, Sonia Cole. And then ‘96 and ‘97, you had Alek, Stacey McKenzie, Debra Shaw, and later on Oluchi. And because so quite a few of all those gals ended up dim-skinned, I considered it was standard for Black women to be all manufactured-up and in trend. I was also active in a good deal of queer LGBT Black communities on MySpace, which is how I bought into ballroom. My curiosity in manner produced sense with ballroom, due to the fact it was all about wanting the greatest. Viewing the ladies, the trans girls, wander and present themselves–I didn’t comprehend what transitioning actually intended right up until then. You never truly know if anything can exist right up until you have noticed it, appropriate? Ballroom grew to become like a risk product.

I see natural beauty as a survival method, practically like a camouflage so people today address me greater. It assisted when I was transitioning. In my downtime, I just use sweats with no jush—the glam is not sustainable! But if I’m having dressed, I’m placing every little thing on. I’m sporting lashes, my eyebrows are accomplished, I have a lip on, total contour, highlight anything, wig glued down, corset on, outfit on, significant heels on. I want to be beat to capability. There’s a detail in ballroom named a ‘femme queen great 10’: femme queen excellent 10s are clean up, finished, and snatched with a flawless facial area, human body, every thing. I want 10s all around—a snatchation so severe that I sort of search like a Disney villain.

If I’m just carrying out my makeup to see a boy, I’m not priming—I’ll only be about him for like two several hours. I’m not undertaking excess for adult men. They do not see the variance at all! But if I’m going out, I use a mix of Milk Make-up Hydro Grip Primer and the Tatcha Silk Canvas so everything sticks to my skin. I like the Becca Greatest Protection foundation, and recently I’ve been eyeing a Pat McGrath a person. Do you ever just obtain into someone’s brand name id? I truly want to be a component of Pat McGrath’s globe. I’lI color appropriate with Deal with Fx Accurate Click underneath my eyes, close to my mouth, a very little bit on my cheeks, and any place I don’t want to look like a beard. But my holy grail concealer is the Nars Radiant Creamy concealer in Café. That’s my preferred. I use yet another creamy concealer from Sephora for contour mainly because it’s so tough to discover anything dim sufficient. The shade is Haute Cocoa. I could use that one on my eyes, much too, when I’m trying to be extra-excess. Then I established it all with the Laura Mercier Placing Powder in Medium Deep, which I’ve been working with forever.

I like my eyes to seem pretty powerful, but natural—like a 1992 Naomi toddler cat eye. I have this Anastasia Beverly Hills eyeshadow in Deep Brown that I use to do a super dramatic tapered eye. If I’m executing eyeliner I have a liquid Pat McGrath one that operates, and—you know how individuals use white eyeliner on their lower waterline? That appears as well severe on me, but if I want to get that exact same seem to open up my eyes a little bit, I’ll use a bit of this Blonde Ambition Sephora manufacturer pencil on my reduced lash line and in the internal corner. Then I’ll put a tiny of Astral White Pat McGrath pigment [Ed note: discontinued] proper there just to make it sparkle. I’m not picky with mascara–the 1 I use the most is Maybelline Colossal Volume. But I adore sporting huge eyelashes. For a working day I’m operating errands, I like the Ardell Wispies, which I’ll stack on with the distinct Duo lash glue.

I put on my brows super slender. I wax them off—I got that from my mom—and I’ll use Anastasia Brow Wiz to attract them in. I really like to use highlighter to make my brow bones and cheekbones pop—that’s a snatchuation second. Pat McGrath’s Pores and skin Fetish is excellent, and I also appreciate the Fenty Match Stix in Unicorn. It’s a glittery lavender, which is my beloved shade. I like lavender, lilac, purple… I enjoy a dark plum lip pencil and some gloss. The lip pencil I’m utilizing is Pat McGrath Deep Void and the lip gloss is the Opulust gloss in Lavendaring. That mix is my best close friend.

My nails are natural ideal now, but I acquire push ons just in scenario. I constantly have them long and painted black—having extended nails wasn’t deemed stylish when I was more youthful, but I would get them to spite my mother in any case. I never get my nails accomplished on a regular basis, because seriously wonderful nails can be like $200. But push ons with Essie’s Gel Setter major coat glimpse like a minor gel set. I just purchased a established of tremendous lengthy types from this girl on Etsy that I simply cannot wait to wear.

I have two diverse sorts of hair goods: pure hair merchandise and wig styling products. I grew up braiding my individual hair and I taught myself how to use expert relaxer. But I have been natural given that I was 25, so for six yrs. With pure hair products, I care about the slip and the smell. I want my hair to scent superior when somebody’s lying on me. It is wild, due to the fact the Suave Essentials Everyday Clarifying Shampoo is like five cents at Walmart and it’s the most effective detangling shampoo I’ve at any time utilized. If I’m emotion snazzy I’ll do what ever hair mask I can get my hands on: appropriate now that’s the Shea Dampness Manuka Intense Hydration Mask. Upcoming I’ll put in a leave-in conditioner, both the Curls Blueberry Bliss or my Curl and Model Milk from Shea Humidity. And then I use a small Jamaican Black Castor Oil or this Style Essentials Lavender and Marula Oil to seal in everything. When my hair is purely natural, I’m not gelling to make my toddler hairs appear cute––I’m gelling because I have a fucking ton of them and they have to have to get out of the way. You know how it is! My preferred edge regulate is the Fashion Factor Edge Booster. It is really fairly and will come in diverse scents.

Now, if I want to dress in my hair straight I’ll put a wig on. With a wig, I adore location my newborn hairs with Tresemme mousse, Obtained2b gel, and spray to retain all the things in area and make certain the lace is glued down. I usually like to remind men and women that a ton Black hairstyles are centered close to operation. If you are not Black you may well just feel it is a stylish appear, but the toddler hair you see on a Black woman’s wig is there due to the fact she’s hiding her lace. It’s an quick way to sleek your errors if you messed up or if your hairline is wonky.

My pores and skin is only fantastic when I really don’t contact it. I use a light, hydrating cleanser like Krave’s Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser or Cerave and then I use a toner. I have this Laneige Clean Calming toner, which I like due to the fact it’s pretty mild and refreshing, and I also have this Paula’s Option BHA. I utilised to use witch hazel as a toner, so those people are a massive move up for me. I employed to do electrolysis which remaining me with a ton of hyperpigmentation, so that and texture are probably my largest considerations. I want my make-up to search wonderful with out a whole lot of basis. The azelaic acid from The Normal retains everything sleek, and I also just purchased a bunch of Black Female Sunscreen to guard my pores and skin in the course of the day. But at night time I’ll just use a moisturizer.

To rest, I both examine or check out a little something that I can just drop myself in. I used to examine a good deal of fantasy, like fluffy vampire or romance novels, but not long ago I have been into viewing Korean Noona dramas—Some thing in the Rain is just so fucking intimate. I’ll also pay attention to audio for hours… Grace Jones, TLC, Mary J. Blige, Brandy, Aaliyah. I adore YouTube. I view a whole lot of wig video clips (lace frontals, closures, micro one-way links tutorials or natural hair tutorials, I enjoy them all) or style displays. For the reason that of the Trend Channel on YouTube, I have watched practically every single significant style show considering the fact that ‘86. But my pastime when I’m bored bored is this: I’ll check out an aged present and screenshot all the most effective rates.”

—as told to ITG

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